from Serbia: The Country of Death
by John Reed
SALONIKA, Greece (1915) -- We rubbed ourselves from head to foot with
camphorated oil, put kerosene on our hair, filled our pockets with mothballs,
and sprinkled naphthalene through our baggage and boarded a train so
saturated with formalin that our eyes and lungs burned as with quicklime.
The Americans from the Standard Oil office in Salonika strolled down to bid
us a last farewell.
"Too bad," said Wiley. "So young, too. Do you want the remains shipped
home, or shall we have you buried up there?"
These were the ordinary precautions of travelers bound for Serbia, the
country of the typhus—abdominal typhus, recurrent fever, and the mysterious
and violent spotted fever, which kills fifty percent of its victims and whose
bacillus no man had then discovered.
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from Kosovo Under Fire
by Philip Smucker
PRISTINA, Kosovo (27 March 1999) -- For the past two years I have made
Yugoslavia my home. I covered the "democracy uprising" in the streets of
Belgrade two years ago and fell in love with a kind and sensitive Serbian
woman. When Kosovo began its descent into hell last year, I moved in
permanently with Ivana, now my wife, and took up residence on a hill where
I'd been tear-gassed a few months earlier by Serbian police while covering a
peaceful Albanian student demonstration. As the civil war unfolded in
Kosovo, I grew attached to its kind Serbian Orthodox priests, its angry young
Albanian intellectuals, and its soft-spoken farmers. To lighten the burden of
covering massacres and attending funerals in the hinterlands, I had the idea with five other European journalists to open a pub.
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