ASHLAND UNIVERSITY HOMECOMING PARADE
FLOAT BUILDER’S MANUAL
2005
INTRODUCTION
This manual has been written to aid groups in float building. This
is a step-by-step guide to help others take the plunge into float
building with as much knowledge as possible. Once you understand
the basics, you can let your imagination run wild. And the basics
aren’t that difficult. With very few exceptions, there are
no hard and fast rules for float building. Those that are given
are exclusively for safety of all parade participants and attendees
along the parade route. Don’t forget that the Internet also
offers a wealth of information and resources on float building.
Search away!
GETTING
STARTED
“The longest journey begins with just a single step.”
You’ve heard that before and it’s certainly true in
building a float. The best first step is to get a steering group
organized. There are several ways to get the core of a committee
together. This manual was written primarily for groups who want
to build a float, but don’t know how to begin.
First,
you may already know two or three friends or a group who would love
to get involved. Make a few calls and see if they are interested.
Another approach is to send out a flyer or email stating the event,
date, time, and place. Suggest that your group become a part of
the parade and schedule an introductory “informational”
meeting. At this point, you only need about 6 to 12 people as the
core of your group. You’ll need more when the construction
gets underway, but that will come easily once the building begins.
In other words, don’t let a small initial turnout discourage
you.
At the meeting the first task is to get your group excited! You
may even want to invite a representative from the parade committee
to stop by. They will be a great asset in helping to explain the
process and getting everyone excited about becoming involved.
This is a time when you need to line-up your committee members.
The success of your committee will depend on the commitment and
dependability of those who will be working with you. You can organize
the committee in any way you think will work, but these are some
responsibilities you need to have covered: float chairperson, treasurer,
theme and concept, structural design, decorating, and communications.
You may not need a different person for each responsibility, or
you may want to create other work areas. That’s up to you.
This is nothing more than a guide. Take advantage of your group’s
talents and interests.
The next step is to make up a list of block captains. The job of
captain is fairly simple and should require no more than 5 or 6
total hours. They will distribute flyers, email the group, etc.
Make sure, however, that these men and women are dependable “go
getters.” You can run into difficulties early on if you don’t
have good people for this position.
CREATING
YOUR FLOAT
Now that you have a solid organization, it’s time to get down
to the real fun of deciding what you are going to build. Have a
brainstorming session. Kick around the theme and have everyone share
their own ideas. REMEMBER: No ideas are thrown out here. That’s
the concept of brainstorming. Everyone will feed off the thoughts
of everyone else. Before you know it, a great idea will begin to
emerge.
Be sure that your float concept is in some way consistent with the
theme of the parade. Try to design a float concept that will be
uniquely yours. Look for variations on shapes, materials, special
effects, and anything else that will make your entry stand out from
the pack. The Ashland University archives would be a source of information
regarding the history and traditions of AU.
CONSTRUCTION
Before you begin, you need to identify a place where you can actually
build your float. If you have a friend who lives close by with a
garage and a large driveway, that would be an option. If a wagon
cannot be located, the Homecoming Parade Committee will find you
one. You can expect the float building to take about a week. Be
certain you have clear access to electrical outlets.
You are also going to need a variety of tools. Here are a few you’ll
want to plan for: a table saw or circular saw, saber saw, handsaws,
hammers, staple guns, well-stocked tool box with screwdrivers, pliers,
wrenches, utility knife, etc., a long tape measure and carpenter’s
square. Other stuff will certainly be needed if you’re going
to add animation, special effects or other features to your float.
You will need to plan for protection from the weather, especially
in the later stages of construction. A few large sheets of plastic
that can be carefully places over your float and fastened securely
will be needed as “stand by” items once you get into
the decorating phase. Before that, you will probably be able to
pull the float back into the garage each night for protection.
VEHICLE
SELECTION & GETTING TO AND FROM THE PARADE
Floats can be built on a variety of beds: hay wagons, semi-trailers,
low-boy trailers or any number of things. Select a vehicle that
will be suitable for your towing needs. People have been seen in
other parades using everything from garden tractors to semi-trucks.
Make sure the power unit is in good repair and has plenty of gas.
HAY WAGONS
Hay wagons do make great float beds. They are sturdy, just the right
size and adapt easily to most float building designs you might create.
The wagons are 14, 16 or 18 feet long. All lengths are 7 feet wide
and 3 feet high.
For many years most Homecoming floats have been built on hay wagons.
They make wonderful float foundations, but they do have some built-in
limitations. The grander your float ideas, the more limiting you
may find the hay wagon to be. They always have the appearance of
being “hay wagon high.” Secondly, if you want to build
a very long float, you will find hay wagons difficult to adapt.
Your option is to obtain a second type of farm wagon that has a
telescoping center pipe. These are still available from farm implement
suppliers. However, you will have to locate these and negotiate
a price yourself.
The following are a list of wagon donors, if you are in need of
a wagon:
(Information to follow)
When you have determined the style of your float and reserved your
wagon, you can plan around the exact measurements of the wagon you
have reserved. Be sure to confirm the date you will be able to pick
up your wagon (usually about a week in advance). You can certainly
begin some pre-fabrication before that time, but the major construction
will be done once the wagon arrives.
The typical “urban assault vehicle” such as a Suburban,
Expedition, or similar class SUV has become a preferred towing vehicle
for some parades. Select a vehicle with at least 3.42 rear gear
ration and a Reese type hitch.
Because the float must be transported to and from the parade route
it falls with the legal definition of “motor vehicle.”
As such, the driver and occupants must follow all state and city
motor vehicle regulations, including having the vehicle insured.
Give
some thought as to who will drive the vehicle. Select someone with
experience at driving while towing a trailer and maneuvering in
tight spaces. The parade is not the place to obtain “on-the-job
training.”
Floats can be built on a variety of beds: hay wagons, semi-trailers,
low-boy trailers or any number of things.
Vehicles with a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of 26,001 pounds or
more (Semi-trucks) must be operated by a driver who is in possession
of a current Ohio Commercial Drivers License (CDL) and a State issued
medical card. So, even if Cousin Phil claims to know how to drive
the big rigs, please leave the task to an expert.
ALLOWABLE
VEHICLE DIMENSIONS & RULES
The vehicle cannot exceed 65 feet in length or 8 feet in width.
The vehicle including the float cannot be higher than 13 feet 6
inches. That is the height of traffic signals and wires along College
and Katherine Avenue in Ashland.
RULES
During the transport process to and from the parade event no one
should ride on the float. Floats are not required to have a license
plate, however, to make sure you are in legal compliance you should
install a Slow Moving Vehicle placard on the rear of the float for
use during the transport. The Slow Moving Vehicle placard is the
orange triangular sign like the ones used on farm tractors and heavy
equipment.
During the parade, designate at least two spotters to walk near
the float so that the float and the occupants can be monitored.
Children love a parade and they love to ride on floats. Sometimes
over-enthusiastic passengers may overlook the dangers of riding
on a large heavy vehicle.
Objects
cannot be thrown or passed to the crowd from floats at any time
during the parade. Your float will be removed from the parade if
the marshals or police see candy or any other items being thrown
or passed to the crowd.
Make sure that your passengers and their families know where to
meet your float before the parade (you will be assigned a specific
staging area well in advance of October 1, 2005). Also let folks
know where you will drop riders off and ask them to make specific
arrangements about who will pick them up when the parade is over.
The parade will end at Community Stadium at the west end of Katherine
Avenue.
BASIC
FRAMEWORK
The first stop after you have your wagon is to build the basic framework.
You have to decide just how elaborate your float frame must be based
on your intended use. You will need more floor strength if you plan
to have riders on the float than if you do not. Also, floats with
large structures on the wagon will also need extra strength.
Float construction should be a paramount concern. If it looks nice
but has engineering flaws, everyone will be disappointed. Use quality
materials to construct the float to endure wind, rain, and the journey.
Remember: people have to ride on the float, so watch for sharp corners,
dangerous objects, and protruding nails.
Many floats will require that you build a frame over the existing
wagon. Other designs simply use the wagon bed as is and add the
superstructure needed for your design. If you are going to build
a new floor over the wagon, use 2x6s or 2x8s on edge for the outer
framework and then run 2x4s between them side to side. In general,
place these stringers no more than 16” apart for strength
if you are actually going to stand on the floor. The edges of the
wagons are protected with steel bands, so you’ll have to plan
your frame to fasten solidly to the wagon bed. You can toenail the
frame to the wagon bed. Take note of any areas that seem to need
extra support and add any braces you think are necessary. You can
probably use 1x2s or something lighter for this purpose. This part
of the float should be very solid.
If you will have people riding on the float, you’ll now want
to lay a floor of inexpensive sheathing plywood over your frame.
½” thick should be enough. The plywood will also add
strength and stability to the frame.
Now you’ll begin to construct the part of your float that
is more for show. At this point you’ll definitely start working
with lighter lumber in areas that won’t be supporting much
weight. This superstructure will generally be used to support chicken
wire, cardboard or other light decorating items. Keep in mind that
the maximum float height is 13’ 6”. Width is restricted
to 20’. There is no set limit on length. Depending on the
type of design you have planned, you may now add a framework around
the side of the wagon to flare out and down. This can help to hide
the fact that you are building on a hay wagon. This can be built
from 2x2s and 1x2s. Be certain that you allow for free movement
of the wagon tongue and wheels. The front wheels move quite a bit
when you turn, so be particularly careful there.
Now is the time to add lattice strips to the floor. These are easily
“ripped” from cheap 2x4s. They can be made more flexible
for bending around curves by soaking them in wire prior to installation.
Now is a good time to hook up the float and give it a short test
run. This is when you want to be certain that everything is ship
shape… not the morning of the parade. You’ll be surprised
at how much the float can wobble and you may want to add some additional
bracing to lessen this. You’ll also want to note if you will
have to pull your float over a curb to get it in the street. If
that’s the case, set aside several boards to use for ramps
the morning of the parade.
DECORATING YOUR UNIT
Now that the main float structure is complete, you will start the
decorating process.
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
We
must comply with Ohio Fire Code F-306.2
Parade Floats: All decorative materials utilized on
parade floats shall be flame resistant in accordance with the field
test in NFPA 701 listed in rule 1301:7-7-35 of the Administrative
Code. In assembling your floats it is required that
you use flame resistant tissues, paste, paper, cloth, etc. due to
fire hazards involved. Flame-resistant materials can be purchased
at area stores. If you are unable to find an item that is flame-resistant
the following solution can be mixed and used: 1 ¼ lbs. boric
acid + 9 oz. Borax + 3 gallons water. Commercial solutions may also
be available to use. Test any solution on a small sample of material
to be treated as it may cause colors to run. The NFPA field test
mentioned is to take a 1 ½” wide by 4” long piece
of material to be tested. Suspend the sample (use pliers, wire clip
or tongs to protect fingers). Hold an ordinary wooden kitchen match
to the bottom center strip, with the bottom edge ½”
above the match head (not the flame). After 12 seconds, the match
is removed. To pass, the flame must not have spread over the entire
sample, and any flame should go out within 2 seconds. Any drips
off the sample should quit burning once they reach the floor.
TECHNIQUES
The traditional technique for final decorating is the use of simple
pre-cut squares of colored tissue paper, called Poms. They give
a very rich and consistent appearance and come in a wide variety
of colors. They also lend themselves to very elaborate decorating
patterns. A single package of Poms, used in every other hold in
chicken wire can cover 4 sq. ft. The disadvantage is that they require
quite a bit of time to stuff in place. Here are two methods of using
Poms in float building.
METHOD
A.: USING CHICKEN WIRE
For this method, you’ll need to buy an adequate supply of
chicken wire. This wire can be easily cut with tin snips and molded
over the wooden superstructure into a wide variety of flexible shapes.
You will find that it won’t take long to understand how to
cut the wire and then join the pieces with other short lengths of
wire or plastic electrical ties. Another option is to buy a “hog
ringer” at a hardware store. This tool crimps an open ring
and clamps the two adjacent pieces of wire together. Fasten the
wire to the wooden framework with staples wherever it crosses a
brace.
Once the float is covered with wire, layout your design areas where
different colors are to go. You can mark them with spray paint or
paint brushes.
Now you’ll need all those neighbors who haven’t gotten
involved so far. There are two techniques used for stuffing Poms.
For large areas of general coverage you can place a Pom in every
other opening. For dense detail use every hole.
Working with a small area, spray the chicken wire lightly with a
spray adhesive. This is available at discount stores and building
supply centers. Then take a single Pom, form it quickly into a cone
over the tip of your index finger and place it firmly into the chicken
wire. You’ll catch onto this technique quickly.
Because Pom stuffing is very time consuming, float builders have
sometimes devised plans that allow for the chicken wire sections
to be distributed to a number of teams. Each team then completes
their own area and the sections are joined together on the float.
It is definitely more difficult to layout the wire this way, but
it may help eliminate a last minute rush.
METHOD
B: USING CORRUGATED CARDBOARD
This method combines the use of Poms, spray adhesive and corrugated
cardboard. Work within small sections so that the adhesive remains
tacky. As described in Method A, form a cone over your index finger
with a single Pom and simply touch the point to the tacky cardboard.
Continue attaching Poms approximately 3” to 4” apart
for general coverage and closer for detail work or combinations
of colors. When covering large areas, you can reduce Pom use by
painting the cardboard to match the Pom color so that no brown cardboard
shows through. The cardboard is usually fastened to the frame with
½” to ¾” staples. The larger the sheets
of cardboard, the better the result will be.
Here are some tips for installing the cardboard:
- Don’t overlap the cardboard. Make certain the edges butt together.
- Cut the cardboard so that the edges end on a piece of the wood frame for extra stability.
- The cardboard will sag and droop if it is humid, so plan to add cardboard only a few days before the parade.
- If the cardboard gets wet, take it off and replace it with a dry panel.
Corrugated Cardboard Sources
Thanks to recycling awareness, large sheets of corrugated cardboard
may be obtained from appliance and furniture stores, bicycle dealers
and others. Call in advance to ask them to save cartons well before
you need them. The University’s Recycling Department also
would be a good source to find cardboard. Call the Recycling Coordinator
at ext. 5745.
Other Techniques – Paper Mache
Paper-Mache is normally used for areas on your float that require
great detail in shape or for contrast against the softer look of
Poms or petal paper. The Paper-Mache process involves creating a
chicken wire frame and then covering it with several layers of newspaper
soaked in a mixture of flour and water. Be sure to plan ahead because
it takes several days before it will dry enough for you to paint
it. When the Paper-Mache has dried, it’s a good idea to use
a primer before your final coat. A gloss or semi-gloss paint will
help to make Paper-Mache more water-resistant.
FINISHING
TOUCHES
There are many products available to help give your float that “finished”
look. These are only a few suggestions.
Festooning
This is a paper product that comes in long rolls and looks much
like the Hawaiian lei. It is great to cover seams, flaws or to blend
areas where two colors or surfaces come together. It is especially
helpful when using petal paper or applying skirting or fringe to
the bottom of your float. Festooning is also available in foil and
plastic. This is a product for which you will discover many original
uses. Attach it with 3/8” to 5/8” staples.
Fringe and Skirting
These two products are commonly used to decorate the bottom of floats.
Skirting comes in 30” lengths while fringe is 15” long.
Keep the bottom edge approximately 2” above the street to
prevent it from becoming soiled. Attach skirting and fringe through
the narrow band at the top using medium length staples. Complete
the installation by overlaying the band with a row of festooning.
Skirting is available in plastic only while fringe is sold in both
paper and plastic.
Spray Paint
One of the greatest tools you can use in the pursuit of a true professional
look is spray paint. In the hands of a person with some artistic
talent, spray paint can be used to add shading, shadowing, and highlights
and to add color that may not be available in other float building
products. Note: Be certain that paint is compatible
with the materials on your float. Standard aerosol paints will actually
melt plastic and Styrofoam. Special paints are available
at craft stores.
Lettering
Letters are almost always used in some form on floats. Remember,
your float will be assigned a number so allow for it on your design.
You can choose from ready made lettering or others that must be
made from paper, Styrofoam or wood. Some general considerations
for lettering include:
- Contrast between the letter color and the background color.
- Make all letters as large as possible. Will a parade spectator be able to read it from 20’ away?
- Font/typeface – keep it simple and legible. Script lettering
is rarely used in Informational signage for good reason.
Ready-made letters and
paper letters are 2-dimensional, but they can be quite effective
when used on the proper background. Styrofoam letters are cut from
sheets of building insulating materials that can be inexpensively
obtained from many lumber yards and building supply centers. It
is available in several thicknesses and produces letters that are
3-dimensional and can be mounted on a wide variety of surfaces.
In addition, the Styrofoam is light in weight and very easy to cut.
Craft stores carry a number of paints safe for Styrofoam. You can
install the letters with drywall ring shank nails by simply pushing
them through the chicken wire or cardboard and into the back of
the letters.
SPECIAL
EFFECTS
Special effects enhance the visual appeal of floats and give creative
types an outlet to express their imagination. Special effects include
almost anything you can conceive that brings excitement, vitality
and originality to your entry. Let your imagination run wild.
MORE
FINE PRINT
Ohio Fire Code F-306.2.2 Special Effects: Any parade
float utilizing special effects which are designed to create smoke,
flame, heat or sparking conditions shall be approved prior to authorization.
In your design and presentation, no open flame such as candles,
lamps or torches will be allowed. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) fire extinguishers
and /or dry ice are acceptable for smoke effects. Any other devices
should be checked with the Ashland Fire Department.
Here are a few general techniques for adding pizzazz to your float.
Make sure you read carefully the section on Power Sources.
POWER
SOURCES
Ohio Fire Code F-306.2.1 Motorized Apparatus: All motorized
apparatus utilized for parade floats shall be provided with a portable
fire extinguisher with a minimum 2-A:10-B:C rating which shall be
readily accessible to the operator. An extinguisher
MUST be carried on the float or in the tow vehicle during the parade
and someone be assigned who knows how to use it. We recommend a
fire extinguisher be kept nearby during construction also.
Many special effects require electrical power. You can decide on
the best power source after you complete your plans and have some
idea of what type and the quantity of power you will need. Many
small items may run on a battery, normally a car or golf cart battery.
Be sure you use a separate battery from the one being used to run
the vehicle pulling your float. Pulling the float through the parade
will be enough of a strain on the towing vehicle without tapping
into its power supply.
If you will be using a powerful sound system or any other 110 amp
electrical equipment, you’ll need to use a gas powered electric
generator. They are normally available at equipment rental stores.
A 5,000 watt generator will rent for about $45 per day. Note:
These must not be installed UNDERNEATH your float. They must
be away from flammable materials and in a well-ventilated location.
You might put it in the rear of an open truck pulling the float
or place it in a small garden trailer pulled from the back of the
float. Be sure to reserve these units early.
ANIMATION
Animation is one of the best special effects used on floats. In
general there are three common methods used to put motion in float
animation.
- A turntable driven by a motor at the center that turns the table and creates animation.
- An “extra” wheel that trails under or behind the float. Then a belt and pulley system transfers that rotation into the movement you need to make your creation run. Bicycle wheels are great for this purpose. I’m sure you know someone who has an old bicycle tire to “spare.”
- A motor mounted on the object that is to move. That will allow
you to have an object rotate around a turntable for example.
Other animation requires motions that will have to be worked out
for your individual circumstances. Don’t let the little extra
time you might have to spend working on a solution keep you from
using animation. It is a tremendous asset to a float and a great
crowd pleaser.
SOUND
Sound – either music or sound effects – is another great
dimension that you should consider for your float. Best of all,
it can be added with little investment in either time or money.
The best source is either a cassette tape, or perhaps a portable
CD player. Many of the CD players will allow you to program a REPEAT
function to re-play a selection track again and again. This might
be perfect if you are using a straight song and it’s available
on CD.
There are two options for cassettes. The standard cassette will
require that you record the sound track back-to-back again and again.
If you don’t have a self-reversing player you’ll have
to plan for rewinding. The second option is to use an endless loop
cassette. These are available at Radio Shack as outgoing message
tapes. They are very limited in terms of length, so check them out
before you plan your sound track. The tape operates in a loop and
will play over and over. Some machines will not play these because
the cassette supply reel does not turn. Also, they work best when
they are used in a flat position rather than on edge. We recommend
that you purchase and record two tapes if you want to use endless
loop. They can self-destruct without warning, but two tapes should
see you through. New CD-R technology offers many possibilities!
Once you have selected your sound source, you’ll need to obtain
a playback system with amplifier and speakers. Boom boxes are rarely
a good solution. Although they may rattle walls of your children’s
bedroom, they won’t supply the sound or quality you will need
on the parade route.
Instead, consider a stereo amplifier or receiver with several bookshelf-type
speakers placed on both sides of the float. Position them behind
your chicken wire frame or other surfaces that will allow the sound
to penetrate. You will probably need a small generator, which can
often be used to power a limited number of lights or other accessories.
The difference a quality system will make in your sound is dramatic
and it will payoff parade day.
LIGHTS
Since we mentioned lights above, by all means consider them if they
can fit into your design. The important thing to remember is that
lights than constantly stay on probably will be hard to see in the
morning sun. On the other hand, Christmas tree sets such as “motion
lights” or flashing lights, as well as strobe lights, can
be seen if they are well placed. They can make great ‘billboards’
around signage and on other features you want to highlight.
Special effects are just that – SPECIAL. You can probably
come up with an effect that has never been used in just that way
in a parade before. Special effects can help to make a good float
GREAT.
ODDS
& ENDS (Hang in there – we’re almost done)
Just a few final thoughts:
- Have plastic available to cover your float just in case. The further you get into decorating, the more important this will be. A good sheet of 6 mil plastic will do the job.
- When decorating is completed (probably the night before the parade) keep two or three people with it all night. Vandals can strike and ruin your work. A small security detail will eliminate that possibility.
- Towing vehicles – cars, trucks and vans. Check out everything to be sure you are ready. Tank full? Tires checked? Cooling system in top shape? The parade moves at only 4 or 5 miles an hour for the 1.3 mile route. Overheating can be a problem if you are not prepared.
- Plan your route to the parade carefully. Be certain you won’t have to pass under any low hanging trees or other obstacles. Also, try to travel side streets and travel slowly. The wind can really damage a fragile float.
- Arrive on time at the staging area. The parade is very well organized and we are counting on you to arrive at your assigned time to make the assembly and coordination as smooth as possible. Go directly to the staging area you will be assigned in advance. Estimate the travel time you need, and double it!
- Bring a last minute repair kit. Include extra Poms to replace
any that blow away, spray adhesive, staple guns, duct tape, a
roll of patching wire, a good mechanics tool set and anything
else you can think of that would be needed to make a last minute
repair. Also, buy a “flat repair in a can.” It might
keep you in the parade if a flat occurs on either the float or
towing vehicle.
IT’S
NOT OVER UNTIL – WELL, UNTIL YOU REACH COMMUNITY STADIUM
The parade concludes at the west end of Katherine Avenue at Community
Stadium. At that location you will feel the strange transformation
from a community project to just another big vehicle blocking traffic.
Police Officers and Ashland University Safety Services staff will
be positioned to assist you at the end of the parade, but they have
two basic rules for you:
#1 Do not abruptly stop at the end of the parade route. Continue
to the designated dispersal areas. Be careful when crossing Mifflin
Ave. Also, watch for other units following you.
#2 Pull off the parade route into the designated dispersal areas
as safely and quickly as possible to unload.
FINAL
TIPS
Vandalism to floats the night before the parade may be an issue.
We recommend once you’ve finished that masterpiece you assign
someone to watch it all night. Maybe even conduct a mini-campout
with other groups, thereby making the float building adventure even
more fun! Also, remember to lock up any tools / equipment when you
are not working on your float.
PLEASE
RECYCLE
When at all possible, we encourage the use of recycled and recyclable
materials in constructing your float.
HERE ARE SOME WEBSITES FOR MORE FLOAT BUILDING IDEAS!
http://www.1st-paradefloats.com
http://www.deswerks.com/parade.html
http://www.victorycorps.com/floats.html
http://www.fbsind.com/FLOATS/Buildafloat.html
http://www.paradesetc.com
AND IN CONCLUSION…
This is only an introduction to what can be a great experience for
you and your club or organization. You’ll make new friends,
the team will become closer and it’s a great experience for
your children. Best of all, you’ll know the thrill of seeing
your own float make its way up Center Street on the morning of the
parade. You’ll never forget the sound of the applause.
Note: This manual was adapted from the Worthington Bicentennial
Parade website: http://www.worthington.org/bicentennial/events/paradepartic.cfm
Good Luck and Happy Float Building!